The Bombay East Indians: A Culinary and Cultural Legacy

The Bombay East Indians, a vibrant Catholic community native to Mumbai and its surrounding areas, are a testament to the city’s layered history. Their unique identity, shaped by Portuguese colonization and British rule, is reflected in their cuisine—a fusion of Konkani, Portuguese, and British influences. This blog explores the history of the Bombay East Indians, their food, the ingredients that define their dishes, and the iconic recipes that embody their heritage.

A Historical Journey

The Bombay East Indians trace their roots to the indigenous inhabitants of the North Konkan region, including Mumbai, Thane, Vasai, and Raigad. Originally Hindus, many converted to Catholicism during Portuguese rule, which began in 1534 with the acquisition of the Bombay islands. The Portuguese, who controlled the region until 1661, introduced Christianity and their culinary traditions, profoundly shaping the community’s culture. When the Portuguese ceded Bombay to the British in 1661 as part of Catherine of Braganza’s dowry to Charles II, the local Catholic converts, primarily fisherfolk and farmers, began working with the British East India Company. To distinguish themselves from Goan and other Christian migrants, they adopted the name “East Indians” in the 19th century, aligning with the company that employed many of them.

Despite their small population—roughly 500,000 today—the East Indians have preserved their distinct identity through language (a dialect of Marathi), music, and food. Their cuisine, unlike the coconut-heavy Goan fare, emphasizes dried fish, bottle masala, and simpler preparations, reflecting their coastal roots and Portuguese influence.

Ingredients That Define East Indian Cuisine

The East Indian kitchen is a blend of local Konkani ingredients and Portuguese introductions, with a touch of British restraint. Key ingredients include:

Bottle Masala: The heart of East Indian cooking, this spice blend—made from up to 30 sun-dried, roasted, and hand-pounded spices like chillies, turmeric, cumin, and cloves—is unique to each family. Stored in long-stemmed beer bottles to preserve freshness, it’s a closely guarded secret that gives dishes their signature flavor.

Dried Fish: Bombay duck (bombil), prawns, and other seafood, dried to last through the monsoon, are staples. They’re used in chutneys, curries, and fries, reflecting the community’s fishing heritage.

Vinegar: Introduced by the Portuguese, vinegar adds tang to dishes like vindaloo and sorpotel, balancing spice and preserving food in Mumbai’s humid climate.

Rice and Rice Flour: Rice, a Konkani staple, appears in curries, pulaos, and bhakris (flatbreads). Rice flour is used in breads like handbreads and chutneys.

Potatoes and Onions: Brought by the Portuguese via the Columbian Exchange, these are common in curries and fries, often paired with fish or meat.

Chillies: Another Portuguese import from the Americas, chillies add heat to curries and masalas, adapted to local tastes.

Coconut: While less dominant than in Goan cuisine, coconut is used sparingly in dishes like foogath or lonvas for texture and mild sweetness.

Meat: Pork and chicken are favored, with offal (like liver) featuring in festive dishes. Beef and duck are rare, reflecting dietary preferences.

These ingredients, combined with local seafood and spices, create a cuisine that’s tangy, spicy, and rooted in coastal traditions, yet distinct from its Goan counterpart due to its Marathi base and minimal coconut use.

Influences on East Indian Cuisine

The East Indian culinary tradition is a product of multiple influences:

• Portuguese: The Portuguese introduced vinegar, pork, chillies, tomatoes, and potatoes, along with techniques like slow-cooking and pickling. Dishes like vindaloo (from vinha d’alhos) and sorpotel bear their mark.

• Konkan Roots: The community’s fishing and farming heritage emphasizes seafood, rice, and local spices like black pepper and turmeric, grounding the cuisine in Maharashtra’s coastal flavors.

• British: The British influence is subtle, seen in simpler preparations and the adoption of bread (like pao or poi, akin to Goan breads) and tea. The community’s alignment with the East India Company also shaped their identity and culinary pride.

• Marathi Culture: The use of Marathi names (kanda for onion, batata for potato) and rice-based dishes reflects the community’s linguistic and cultural ties to Maharashtra.

• This fusion creates a cuisine that’s less spicy than Goan food but richer in preserved flavors, with bottle masala and dried fish as its defining elements.

Iconic East Indian Dishes

East Indian cuisine shines in its simplicity and bold flavors, with dishes that are both everyday staples and festive highlights:

• Vindaloo: A spicy, tangy pork curry adapted from the Portuguese vinha d’alhos, it uses bottle masala, vinegar, and garlic. Each family has its own variation, often served at weddings and feasts.

• Sorpotel: A rich pork and liver stew, slow-cooked with bottle masala, vinegar, and spices. Some recipes, like those using homemade wine instead of vinegar, add sweetness, making it a festive favorite.

• Wedding Rice (Arroz Fugath): An aromatic pulao with ghee, spices, nuts, and raisins, this dish is a must at celebrations, pairing perfectly with rich curries.

• Bombil Chilli Fry: Dried or fresh Bombay duck coated in bottle masala and fried, often served with bhakri or as a starter. It’s a coastal classic that highlights the community’s love for fish.

• Lonvas: A mutton and pumpkin curry spiced with bottle masala, lonvas is a comforting family dish, sometimes made with fish or prawns.

• Foogath: A lightly spiced vegetable dish (often cabbage or French beans) tossed with coconut and oil, showcasing the cuisine’s simpler side.

• Kardi Aamba: A tangy curry of tiny shrimps and dried mango, this everyday dish balances sweet and sour flavors, served with rice or bhakri.

• Sukha Bomblache Lonche: A dried Bombay duck pickle, spicy and pungent, used as a condiment or in fries, ensuring seafood availability year-round.

• Calde: A vague, adaptable soup that varies by household, often made with vegetables, lentils, or fish, showcasing the “personal touch” emphasized in East Indian cooking.

• Liver Stuffing: A Christmas special, this chicken liver and bread pudding is stuffed into roasted chickens, reflecting Portuguese-inspired festive traditions.

A Living Legacy

The Bombay East Indians’ cuisine is more than food—it’s a celebration of their resilience and identity. Despite their dwindling numbers and the pressures of Mumbai’s cosmopolitan sprawl, the community keeps its traditions alive through family recipes, festivals, and restaurants like Eastern Sunset and East Indian Fast Food. Bottle masala, dried fish, and dishes like vindaloo and wedding rice carry stories of Portuguese ships, British trade, and Konkani fishing villages.

Today, East Indian food is gaining recognition, with cooks like Valencia D’Souza and community advocates like Charmaine preserving recipes for future generations. Whether it’s a simple bombil fry or an elaborate sorpotel, each dish reflects the community’s pride in its heritage—a heritage that’s as much about faith and family as it is about flavor.

Conclusion

The Bombay East Indians are Mumbai’s original inhabitants, their food a delicious bridge between India’s coastal traditions and European influences. From the secretive bottle masala to the pungent dried fish chutneys, their cuisine is a sensory journey through history. As you savor a plate of wedding rice or a spicy lonvas, you’re tasting centuries of cultural exchange, preserved with love by a community that refuses to fade away. To explore this cuisine, visit East Indian eateries in Mumbai’s northern suburbs or try making a vindaloo with authentic bottle masala—just don’t expect an auntie to share her recipe!